Post 9 There is no place like home

Standing at the entrance with The summit in the background 40 miles away, down in two days. This was going in two weeks earlier weather and my clean clothes give it away.

Four days ago I was standing on the top of the world we are chased down the mountain by the deteriorating weather making it to the gate in 2 days including a 20 mile day over a rocky trail.  We have two injuries one required a helicopter ride to front gate.  I slowly make my way down, mud slides block the trail and we have to work around them.  The warming weather and now rain at low altitudes cause a heavy runoff and the way out is getting complicated. 

Max has climbed mountains in 9 countries this year and he has had everything from earthquakes to typhoons he takes the mudslide in stride. I am at the bottom of the mountain have tent,food and water I don't need anything else, we move to a ski resort that the mules unload our gear, there are 2000 people stranded in their cars everyplace is soon out of food. We are told it may take 4 days to clear or we drive to Chile.  Max finds a empty condo that the group crashes in, it is dirty no water but better than sleeping in a tent in the rain and wind.  I have a bad cough and keep everyone up Carol offered to transplant my lung with her fork.  I didn't get sunblock on my nose and lips summit day they are badly burnt the dust makes me sneeze and my face feels like it will break off.

all week we have been seeing a film crew spread up the mountain to film a Brazilian lady attempt break to record from gate to summit in 12 hours.  My friend from last year Gabe was one of the cameramen we meet him at the bottom the record attempt has been called off and they too are stuck.  After 2 days we finally get through to Mendoza I try to get a early flight but the main road out of town is still one way and all flights are full. I have a flight out in 2 more days no chance of getting out any earlier.  I now have Comunications, Internet, bed,shower,toilet, restraunts and a barber shop to get rid of the beard. I meet the group for dinner,beer and steak, I have lost 20 lbs and now my appetite is back and starving. 

Roi flys out at 4am and we say goodby to the rest of the group. I am greatful Roi reached out to me we both had something unfinished on the mountain and my training preparations were for Everest in April this climb gives me confidence and had Roi not called don't know if I would have returned.  You spend weeks with a person in a 2 man tent you become good friends or bitter enemy's, I couldn't have had a better climbing partner/tent mate.

I make it home finally well rested glad to see my family and ready to get back to work. My gear got lost it is in the US but still waiting for it to get delivered. It will take a few days to get the mountain out of my thoughts and fully digest the trip.  I am still 14lbs less than when I left now I need to stop eating.  I think about how lucky I got with the weather and my body holding up. My equipment and preparation were perfect. My climb leader and guides were the best in the business and are a bigger reason for me making it to the top than what I did.  Everest is 2 months away and no time to celebrate Aconcagua was kind to me this year.  I apologies for the choppy post I wrote a novel on the mountain and as I read it I know I was in a Hypoxic state and sound like a crazy person.  I will end with my last post from last year. 

February 2015 

I said I hoped to find out "why" by the end of the climb. It has been almost 3 months since I got
off the mountain I am just finishing my last post. it has taken me this long to heal both physically
and mentally from the trip. I had vision of writing about my feelings while standing on top
looking down on the Andes. I have been ask if I made it to the top and I tell people yes to keep
from a longer explanation. I made it as far as I was to go, which was after 3 weeks few hundred
meters from the top. I hear people talk about conquering the mountain, the mountain
can kick your ass at any time by many different ways. With my attempt it wasn't injures and
illness which I had both, it was bad news from home that ended my climb. If your lucky and
prepared the mountain will let you up and down, if your not prepared or take too many risks it will kill you. 

This is a retrospective account of my time on Aconcagua it isn't a how to live or self promotion
but my attempt to understand why and continue to grow and learn. I have had time to think and
look at what is important without the clutter of everyday life and this gives me direction. I
challenged myself physically and mentally, and removed myself from my comfort zone to
become present and aware. I have always looked for inspiration and gotten if from many places
a coach, friend, co worker, nature, art, my children, my wife. Climbing a mountain inspires me
and in some strange way makes me appreciate my friends, family and life more. Aconcagua's biggest
lesson was how precious life is and not to waste a single day. 

So did I find out why? I have forgotten the why nots and list only the Why's. Whats next? I am
now training for another climb this July in Russia to Mt Elbrus not as tall 18,600, but cold and
nasty. I will write on another blog Elbrus15.blogspot.com

Why:
Have time to think about whats important in life
Have something to train for
Will never regret not trying
See something that I have never seen
Challenge myself physically & mentally
Recharge
Learn Portuguese? probably not
Met new friends with similar interest
Best steak and Malbec ever
Seeing and feeling the South face of Aconcagua
Its a sin to waste the gifts God has given you I have been blessed to be able to do this.
Only God knows why
Overcoming days like yesterday
Learning Hebrew, a few words
Sunset looking down on the Andes
Living my Life wish
Mate gets me jacked up
Think I can survive a nuclear winter
Thin air makes me goofy
Don't need food
Made me appreciate simple things again Toilette, bed, shower, real food.
I look real scary

Post 8 Summit day the Highest man in the world

3am wake up call no wind!!! During the night the gust rattled the tent but as we get ready no wind. I slowly crawl outside to test the temp, cold but not unbearable, the sky is electric blue, stars are brighter than I have ever seen them, I can see satellites orbiting looking like small planes and I feel good. I am First to get ready only my suit, boots goggles, gloves and food in the pack.  We start and will have 4 hours until light we make our way slowly up sig sagging between large rock pinnacles sheltered from any wind that may pick up as the sun rises.

Our day is going to be long 12 hours up and 6 down give or take a few hours.  After 5 hours We make it to the huts where the most difficult part of the climb starts first the traverse which is crossing the snow covered face where the wind excelerates due to the slopes this is where we were told if we fall we have 3 seconds to self arrest or will be in trouble after we cross this we find a cave and drop our pack take on food and water and start up the steepest section the canoleta that runs to the ridge that will lead to the summit. We will be on snow and are instructed to put our crampons on.  I have put them on and off may times and practiced with them not a lot harder than tieing your shoes but at 21,500 even tieing your shoe is hard.  I put my first one on the wrong foot and have to stare at it to process what's wrong.  Max and the rest of the group start across and I meet them at the cave.  The canoleta is snowy which is good instead of crawling up rocks and screet you kick in steps and with crampons is easier.  Not sure when I hit the ridge but the angle changed and we start seeing the top I and with 3 other climbers and moving slow.  I cross back180 degrees and I see the cross 50 yards away. I don't know why but every summit I reach is very emotional I start tearing up and my mind is going everywhere.  I get to the cross say a scratch maddies name in the rock, say few prayers, stand take a 360 view of the Andes below me It is a bueatiful day and I am trying to take it in. The group is all on top and celebrate.

Max and his team had 10 people on top which is unheard of and one of his best days I was glad to be part of it. I was told that when you stand by the cross you will be the tallest human in the world.  Since Aconcagua is the tallest mountain in the Southern Hemisphere and the only mountain taller is in the norther hemisphere in the Hymalan where no expeditions are currently going.  I felt like the tallest man in the world but all the celebration had to end we had a long trip back to camp 3.  6 hours of walking down on rubbery legs finally in tent safe.

I had taken on some oxygen on the descent an had some breathing problems over night my issues were caused by a bad case of dehydration I only took 3 liters. After a restless night and hydration my breathing was better and packed up camp and started down.  I get to Basecamp Plaza of the mules to pizza and Malbec wine.  I call home let everyone know I will be home soon.

Post 7 High Camp 3 Colorea 20,300 ft

I am not sure where the name came from I have a hard time believing any disease could live in this cold dry place.  It has been 4 days since I have seen a plant or animal no birds singing in the morning no bugs Just rocks snow and ice and people struggling with the altitude, weather and their own body.

I had a great day was able to eat 400 calories of Mac and cheese and 2 fat breads with jelly.  I was over dressed and had to unzip suit, and boots to keep from sweating.  We leave around 3am for the summit, guides will not tell us when just tell us they will wake us and we need to sleep until then.  I cook spaghetti with meat sauce and eat a few bites doesn't set well and I don't push it.  My prep will be quick I have 2 pieces a one piece 200 weitght Moreno wool under and my heavy down summit suit.  Wool Socks and triple plastic Everest summit series boots and my artic mitts. I will only carry a small day pack that will have food and my thermos with hot water.  The rest of my water is on the inside of my suit to keep from freezing, it makes me look like I weigh 400 lbs but I am warm and comfortable.

A lot different that last year where this camp had me injured dehydrated and beaten down.  Tonight I dream about the top what it will look like? How I will feel?  What will I be thinking about? I have the summit push memorized every segment has been hanging above my computer screen and the cause of lost production daydreaming about the day I get another chance.  That day is just a few hours away.

Post 6 High camp 2 Nido de Condores (nest of the condores 18,300ft)

Post 6 Camp 2 Nido de condores (nest of the condor 18,300ft)

We have a rest day today at camp 2 the summit push is on forecast keeps changing but it looks like a window between storms on the 21st.  Temps have warmed almost 20 degrees it is now expected to be -9 on summit day and wind around 35mph.  Which is great news.  I am still suffering from apnea every time we jack up the altitude I have a bad night sleep with wild dreams, but after a day I am good. Max tells me the high respiration rate helps speed up acclimatization plus discusting details but I am filling a gallon canteen every night which is also good sign of acclimatization. I have gotten very good at getting up taking on water going to bathroom and back in my bag before I get cold.

My appitite is gone I force down a 8 ounce cup of rice and beans for supper and Max and guys fry fat bread for breakfast with tea and coffee.  It will be that way for the rest of the push and I have 1200 calories of dehydrated meals left.  Roi cooked a bag of Mac and cheese and gave me half it is 400 calories that I will save for breakfast and use to fule the climb to our final high camp.  I also have gu packs and chocolate for summit push.  I have my summit suit and heavy millet triple plastic boots I will use to get to high camp with the warming weather I may be overdressed but I can unzip and cool off its better than being underdressed.

At this altitude everything has to be done slowly getting out of your bag, getting dressed, then getting up to your feet requires slow movements.  If you stand too fast or bend over before your heart rate goes up your brain is starved for ox you get dizzy and have to drop to your knees and start over.  I learned this the hard way, getting organized early, having the right stuff and taking my time makes all the difference.  My dreams are also as hard to control as my breathing at night.  I don't remember other mountains having had such bizarre nights.  Maybe the negative Comunications I heard from the com tent got into my dreams and expectations of failure keep me awake at night.  I don't know why I am already higher than most that got turned back and feel good.  Once I wake it takes a few minutes for me to convince myself things are ok and it was a dream.

I return here in 2 days to pick up my lighter boots and bibs I will hire a porter to carry my summit gear back to back to base camp.

Post 5: Camp 1 Canada 16,000ft

We make it to camp 1 Canada today and after reading my last few posts I thought I would add this especially once the effects of the high altitude take over I will sound like a crazy person.  

I was very negative about the cold and wind,my aches and pains, I know what I am getting into and love every minute of the trip.  I sounded like I was complaining too much and not sharing the beauty of what is around me.

The push to the summit comes in 3 high camps and a long summit push day, these high altitude peaks come with more pain and more beauty than anyone could ever imagine.  Hope didn't paint a bad picture since my next 5 days are without Comunications and haven't been able to post many pictures showing the good.

We are expecting a storm while acclimatization and walk to camp 2 and 3 will bring a few inches of new snow.  The temps are getting colder as we go up but they also are much better than last few weeks.  Camp is clearing many frustrateed teams defending from high camps beat up less than 1 in 10 are making it to the top many falling short of camp 3.  Most driven by bad timing with weather on the summit push they have to make the decision to rest, restock and make another attempt or start their 20 mile walk out. My tent is by the com tent and I hear it all.

We also give up our dome tent and meals together with rest of the team.  The next few days we stay in 2 man tents and when we get out we start walking when we stop we go back to our tents to get ready for tomorrow, cook our dehydrated meals, and get ahead of the cold night.  We don't start until 10 am except summit day that starts at 3am.  My tent is the envy of all.  We have solar panels and a IPad with all seasons of Dexter and Fargo loaded. 

I am now with pencil and paper write my notes for this blog.  The talk around the dome is about everything science, politics, religion but mostly about the mountain.  Other than the g outchos maybe? I am the least educated of the group executives, engineers, 3 surgeons If I need bones set, lung transplant, or a boob job I have the team. 

Post 4: Posting from Plaza de Mules

Post for from plaza de mules
Yesterday was our first Cary climb to camp 1 Canada at 16000 ft and then a descent back.  We had a beautiful  day with light wind. We made it up and left equipment for high camp by 3pm.  Today we are doing glacier training since we will have snow and ice most of the way and will be using crampons and Ice axes.  The biggest thing is to be able to self arrest if you fall on the glacier the area called the traverse is at 22k and very ice you have 3 seconds to arrest your slide or you take a long ride over the south face.

I feel ok woke to sore back from sleeping on the ground.  Getting better with the clothes and managing my temp in the sleeping bag.  The secret is to get everything organized and in your bag before temperatures drop and keep a hot thermos in the bag to warm it and keep my phone and camera from freezing.  Temp below freezing for the rest of the trip and your in your tent from 9pm till 9am.

In sleeping my bag before sunset this was the day I hurt my knee last year and I am trying not to compare days.  Edu and Max say I am stronger than last year but I was blowing pretty hard at 16k.  We have 2 windows for the summit both very cold and the wind subsides on the 21st and 24th with bad storms before both windows. Worst thing would get stuck in high camp waiting out the storm that is expected between the Windows.  We will be either walking up or down in the storms but not exposed on summit. I am going to have to carry most of my gear so will be slow with large back and high winds.

I may not be able to post until 5 or 6 days.  We have pictures and updates on www.summitclimb.com and go too news and look at Aconcaugua.  You may hear about summit success on that before this post.  It has been a bad season yesterday was the first good window and several people made it.  Camp is crowded due to people waiting for a window.  My tent is close to the Communications tent so I hear people calling home with the news.  Best one was a group from Nashville that just made it to camp 2 before giving up the summit for a week of dove hunting.

Post 3: Plaza de Mulas 14000ft

Rest day after the 2nd hardest day of the climb.  Few wake with headache and everyone has to go to a med checkup before we leave my blood ox was 96, which is better than last years with 2 much harder days than I expected. Chris is sick with a stomach thing and barely makes it to next camp. He hasn't eaten anything for 2 days and takes 10 hours to get to next camp with a 14mile 4000 ft climb.  He is a very strong climber and should be ok.  We dodge mules along the trail. Winds strong with the temperature not too cold.  I got ran over by a stray mule on the way but luckily didn't get hurt.

I am now writing from PDM plaza de Mulas during our rest day.  Listening to descending climbers we got bad news weather was bad, temps were cold, and there was a lot of snow.  We still have 5 days till our push weather forecasts are too far out too be accurate.

Tomorrow is a carry day to our first high camp. We pack half our gear and descend to PDM.  I will have one more day of rest here at base camp and then go dark till I return in 5 days.  I have a satellite phone and will try to give a short update from high camps.

My tent is the one by the black bag. It got ran over yesterday as I dodged a mule, the bag wasn't quite as lucky.