Saturday, February 6, 2016

Post 8 Summit day the Highest man in the world

3am wake up call no wind!!! During the night the gust rattled the tent but as we get ready no wind. I slowly crawl outside to test the temp, cold but not unbearable, the sky is electric blue, stars are brighter than I have ever seen them, I can see satellites orbiting looking like small planes and I feel good. I am First to get ready only my suit, boots goggles, gloves and food in the pack.  We start and will have 4 hours until light we make our way slowly up sig sagging between large rock pinnacles sheltered from any wind that may pick up as the sun rises.



Our day is going to be long 12 hours up and 6 down give or take a few hours.  After 5 hours We make it to the huts where the most difficult part of the climb starts first the traverse which is crossing the snow covered face where the wind excelerates due to the slopes this is where we were told if we fall we have 3 seconds to self arrest or will be in trouble after we cross this we find a cave and drop our pack take on food and water and start up the steepest section the canoleta that runs to the ridge that will lead to the summit. We will be on snow and are instructed to put our crampons on.  I have put them on and off may times and practiced with them not a lot harder than tieing your shoes but at 21,500 even tieing your shoe is hard.  I put my first one on the wrong foot and have to stare at it to process what's wrong.  Max and the rest of the group start across and I meet them at the cave.  The canoleta is snowy which is good instead of crawling up rocks and screet you kick in steps and with crampons is easier.  Not sure when I hit the ridge but the angle changed and we start seeing the top I and with 3 other climbers and moving slow.  I cross back180 degrees and I see the cross 50 yards away. I don't know why but every summit I reach is very emotional I start tearing up and my mind is going everywhere.  I get to the cross say a scratch maddies name in the rock, say few prayers, stand take a 360 view of the Andes below me It is a bueatiful day and I am trying to take it in. The group is all on top and celebrate.


Max and his team had 10 people on top which is unheard of and one of his best days I was glad to be part of it. I was told that when you stand by the cross you will be the tallest human in the world.  Since Aconcagua is the tallest mountain in the Southern Hemisphere and the only mountain taller is in the norther hemisphere in the Hymalan where no expeditions are currently going.  I felt like the tallest man in the world but all the celebration had to end we had a long trip back to camp 3.  6 hours of walking down on rubbery legs finally in tent safe.

I had taken on some oxygen on the descent an had some breathing problems over night my issues were caused by a bad case of dehydration I only took 3 liters. After a restless night and hydration my breathing was better and packed up camp and started down.  I get to Basecamp Plaza of the mules to pizza and Malbec wine.  I call home let everyone know I will be home soon.


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